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Vorbeugung und Prävention

Hautpflege bei unreiner Haut und Akne

Hey,
heute melde ich mich mit einem persönlicheren Post bei dir.
Wie du sicher weißt, hatte ich auch einige Zeit mit Akne zu kämpfen und möchte dir heute meine Tipps und meine Hautpflege für eine gesunde, strahlende und reine Haut mitgeben. Denn auch ich habe lange probiert, immer wieder irgendwelche Sachen genommen und nie gewusst, was wirklich wichtig ist. Fangen wir an. Ich werde dir im Laufe des Posts immer wieder Produkte vorstellen, welche ICH nutze. Das impliziert nicht, dass diese auch für dich optimal sind, denn jede Haut ist verschieden. Alle Produkte sind von mir finanziert und in meiner Empfehlung unabhängig von den Interessen Dritter.

Noch als Tipp vorweg:

Wenn du die Möglichkeit hast, nutze alle Produkte von einer Marke, denn oft sind die Inhaltsstoffe aufeinander abgestimmt.  Ich habe bisher leider keine Linie gefunden, welche mich in allen Ansprüchen an meine Hautpflege zufrieden stellt.
Also suche ich mir aktuell noch von verschiedenen Anbietern das für mich Beste raus (die mit * gekennzeichneten Produkte nutze ich selbst).

1. Viel Feuchtigkeit

  • Deine Haut braucht Feuchtigkeit, sowohl von innen, als auch von außen. Besorge dir daher eine gute Feuchtigkeitscreme und versuche jeden Tag viel stilles Wasser zu trinken. Je mehr, umso besser.
    Ich nutze aktuell morgens + abends die „Daily Power“ von Zein Obagi. Dies ist eine Feuchtigkeitscreme, welche unter anderem Vitamin E (antioxidative Eigenschaften) und etwas Retinol (für eine ebene Haut) enthält
  • Du wirst im kommenden Artikel noch merken, dass ich aktuell großer Fan der ZO Skin Health Produkte für meine Hautpflege bin, obwohl mir auch in dieser „Reihe“ Produkte fehlen, die ich mir von anderen Marken zusammenstelle. Deshalb versuche ich dir auch noch Alternativen zu nennen. Wichtig bei jeder Creme ist, dass dir die Grundlage (die Substanz der Creme) zusagt. Findest du die Creme zu fettig/zu feucht, dann probiere eine andere.
  • Alternative: Avene Cleanance MAT mattierende Emulsion; diese wäre meine zweite Wahl hinter ZO

Tipp: Besorge dir von verschiedenen Produkten, die für deine Hautpflege in Frage kommen Pröbchen. Diese gibt es meist in der Apotheke oder beim Arzt und verwende das in Frage kommende Produkt 3 Tage lang 3 mal täglich. Wenn es dir danach immer noch zusagt, kannst du eine große Packung kaufen und weißt, dass dein Geld gut angelegt ist. 

2. Finger weg vom Gesicht

  • Auch wenn man immer wieder verleitet wird, irgendwo im Gesicht herumzufummeln – Die Hände gehören da nicht hin. Und ebenso solltest du nicht selbst an deinen Mitessern herumdrücken. Durch den Dreck unter deinen Fingernägeln transportierst du wahnsinnig viele Bakterien in deine Wunde (Pickel) und die Entzündung schreitet voran.

3. Handtücher

  • Versuche für Hände und Gesicht niemals die gleichen Handtücher zu benutzen. Ebenso im Fitnessstudio: das Handtuch welches schon auf dem Gerät lag bitte nicht zum Schweiß abtrocknen nehmen.

Ich habe diese drei Tipps für mich als Basis-Tipps für eine ute Hautpflege festgelegt, denn jeder einzelne für sich hat bei mir schon eine große Änderung gebracht.

 

Aber wie war nun mein Weg zu strahlender Haut?

  • Begonnen habe ich meine Akne-Behandlung mit der Skinoren 20% Creme.
    Diese habe ich ein paar Wochen lang benutzt, jedoch aufgrund des hohen Lipid-Gehaltes gar nicht gut vertragen. Man muss sich bewusst sein, dass nahezu jede Akne-Medikation nach 3-4 Wochen eine Erstverschlimmerung auslösen kann, bei mir hat diese jedoch zu lang angehalten. Also habe ich umgestellt auf das leichtere Skinoren Gel 15%. Dieses hat zwar eine niedrigere Konzentration an Azelainsäure (was das genau ist liest du in unserem Artikel hier) aber auch eine weniger fettige Grundlage und ist somit oft besser verträglich.
  • Zusätzlich dazu habe ich mit der systemischen Retinoid-Therapie begonnen.
    Die Therapie mit Retinoiden ist ein „harter Brocken“ aber auch sehr effektiv. Was Retinoide sind, liest du auch hier in unserem Artikel.
    Bevor du mit der ärztlich begleiteten Retinoid-Therapie beginnen darfst, musst du mindestens eine (besser zwei) sichere Verhütungsmethoden nachweisen, einen negativen Schwangerschaftstest und ein astreines Blutbild.
    Das Medikament kann starke Nebenwirkungen (Veränderung der Blutwerte, Depressionen, Gelenkschmerzen, trockene Lippen…) haben und deshalb wirst du währenddessen intensiv von deinem Hautarzt begleitet.
    Da das Präparat wirklich starke Nebenwirkungen haben KANN, ist es wichtig, dass du dich exakt an die Richtlinien und Empfehlungen deines Arztes hältst. So kannst du nicht nur die Nebenwirkungen minimieren, sondern auch den Effekt maximieren. Solltest du dennoch starke Nebenwirkungen haben, so ist es möglich auch erstmal nur die Firma zu wechseln. Bei mir war dies der Fall und nach Wechsel des Anbieters hatte ich keinerlei Probleme mehr.
  • Ausreinigung/Fruchtsäurepeelings:
    Zusätzlich dazu habe ich alle 2 Wochen eine medizinische Kosmetikerin aufgesucht und mein Gesicht ausreinigen und ein Fruchtsäurepeeling durchführen lassen.
    Für mich ist es sehr wichtig zu betonen, dass du eine medizinische (!) Kosmetik besuchst (oft an Hautarztpraxen angegliedert) und keine „normale“ Kosmetik. Ich habe diesen Fehler auch lang gemacht, da ich den Unterschied nicht erkannt habe. Oft arbeiten medizinische Kosmetikerinnen jedoch „reiner“ und können außerdem (das ist für mich der große Benefit) medizinische Produkte verwenden, die man nur ärztlich beziehen kann. Der Effekt wird somit enorm maximiert.
    Eine 2-wöchige Ausreinigung halte ich zu Beginn für sehr sinnvoll, später kann dies auf 4 bis hin zu 6 Wochen ausgedehnt werden.
    Zusätzlich zu den Ausreinigungen empfehle ich dir chemische Peelings mit Fruchtsäure. Dies ist zwar meistens nicht ganz billig, jedoch enorm effektiv. Fruchtsäure hilft dabei die obersten Hautschichten abzutragen und die Haut zur Neubildung anzuregen. Der Hautarzt kann hier Konzentration von bis zu 70% benutzen. Hier haben wir auch noch etwas dazu geschrieben und bald wird auch von mir noch ein eigener Post zur Fruchtsäure kommen, denn ich liebe diese wirklich.
  • Dermaplaning/Mikrodermabrasion:
    Eine weitere Methode die Haut zur Neubildung anzuregen ist das mechanische Abtragen der obersten Hautschichten. Ich habe alle 1-2 Wochen ein Skalpellpeeling (Dermaplaning) bei mir selbst durchgeführt. Auch dieses oder die Mikrodermabrasion empfehle ich dir für eine reinere Haut. Wirkstoffe, die du auf die Haut gibst, können auch nur wirken wenn die obersten Hornschichten vorher abgetragen wurden. Von daher halte ich diesen Punkt auch für enorm wichtig.

So, jetzt kennst du meine (!) Maßnahmen gegen die Akne. Mittlerweile habe ich eine ziemlich reine Haut bekommen und bin zu 90% zufrieden. Mein Ziel ist es nun diese zu halten und weiter zu verfeinern. Die eben genannten Steps wende ich immer noch an, führe alle 2 Wochen ein hochkonzentriertes Fruchtsäurepeeling durch, alle 2 Wochen ein Dermaplaning und alle 4-6 Wochen eine Ausreinigung.
Bevor ich dir meine Morgen- und Abend-Routine vorstelle und dich eventuell ein paar Abkürzungen komplett verwirren, möchte ich dir diese kurz erläutern (gern schreibe ich aber bald auch noch einen ausführlichen Artikel über Fruchtsäuren):

  • AHA: Alpha-Hydroxy-Acid = Alpha-Hydroxyarbonsäure
    • u.a. Glykolsäure, Zitronensäure …
    • lösen alte Hautschuppen und wirken somit gegen Verhornungen, Unreinheiten, große Poren, kleine Falten
    • abtragende und schälende Wirkung, somit auch gut gegen Narben
    • Konzentrationen bis zu 10% für daheim, bis zu 70% bei professioneller Anwendung; peelende Wirkung ab ca. 5%;
    • Perfekt für Anti-Aging
  • BHA: Beta-Hydroxy Acid= organische Hydroxycarbonsäure
    • u.a. Salizylsäure
    • Konzentrationen von 1% bei leichten Unreinheiten, 2% bei hartnäckigeren Pickeln
    • Perfekt für Unreinheiten, fettige Haut und Akne, da Salizylsäure lipophil (fettliebend) ist und somit perfekt gegen Talg
  • PHA: Poly-Hydroxy-Acid = Poly-Hydroxysäure
    • die leichtere Variante von Glykolsäure ist Gluconolacton
    • bewirkt sanftes Schälen
    • Konzentrationen von 4-15% in Cremes, Lotionen etc.
  • Retinol: Vitamin A Säure
    • löst Verhornungen, gegen übermäßige Talgproduktion, Pickel, Falten

Meine morgendliche Hautpflege:

  1. Kaltes Wasser ins Gesicht und 1 großes Glas Wasser trinken.
  2. Reinigungsschaum:
    1. ZO Offects Exfoliating Cleanser* mit Micro-Beads und BHA zur Exfoliation. Hiervon reicht  eine erbsengroße Menge, solang verreiben bis alle Kügelchen aufgelöst sind, abwaschen.
    2. Alternative: Neostrata Clarifying Facial Cleanser mit 4 % Gluconolacton
  3. Gesichts-Tonic:
    1. ZO Offects TE-Pads* mit 2% Salicylsäure (BHA)  und Glykolsäure (AHA)
    2. Alternative: Neostrata Oily Skin Solution mit 8% Glykolsäure (AHA)
  4. Vitamin C: Ascorbinsäure als hochpotentes Mittel gegen Akne, Unreinheiten, Hyperpigmentierungen; regt die Kollagenneubildung an und bewirkt ein ebenmäßiges Hautbild ohne Pigmentflecken; mindestens 10% Konzentration mit niedrigem pH verwenden und als erstes Mittel nach der Reinigung auftragen
    1. ZO Ossential C Bright Serum 10%*
    2. Alternative: Skin Beauty Solutions Vitamin C Serum 15%
  5. Creme + LSF
    1. Ich benutze meine ZO Daily Power Defense* Tagescreme. Diese hat keinen LSF enthalten, deshalb trage ich anschließend noch Sonnencreme auf. Zum Beispiel Paulas Choice Suncare ExtraCare Non Greasy* mit LSF 50 für Mischaut.
    2. Alternative: Wer nur eine Creme auftragen mag, nimmt vorher ein feuchtigkeitsspendendes Serum (z.B. artnaturals Hyaluron-Serum). Dieses zieht restlos in die Haut ein und diese ist bereit für einen guten Sonnenschutz (z.B. auch Avene Cleanance Sonne SPF 30)

Fazit: Was ist morgens wichtig? Sonnenschutz, Feuchtigkeit und Antioxidantien. Klingt kompliziert, aber eigentlich brauchst du nur 3-4 Produkte. Jedes einzelne Produkt hält bei korrekter Anwendung sehr lang.

Meine abendliche Hautpflege:

  1. Abschminken mit Reinigungsschaum:
    1. ZO Offects Exfoliating Cleanser* mit Micro-Beads und BHA zur Exfoliation. Hiervon reicht  eine erbsengroße Menge, solang verreiben bis alle Kügelchen aufgelöst sind, abwaschen.
    2. Alternative: Neostrata Clarifying Facial Cleanser mit 4 % Gluconolacton
  2. Gesichts-Tonic:
    1. ZO Offects TE-Pads* mit 2% Salicylsäure (BHA)  und Glykolsäure (AHA)
    2. Alternative: Neostrata Oily Skin Solution mit 8% Glykolsäure (AHA)
      1. 2-3 mal pro Woche chemisches Peeling: Paulas Choice AHA Toner 10% und Paulas Choice 2% BHA Liquid* empfindliche Partien aussparenSpecials:
  3. Feuchtigkeit:
    1. ZO Daily Power Defense Creme*

Fazit: Am Abend nutze ich gern eine umfangreichere Routine, skalpell-peele mich selbst und tue meiner Haut einfach etwas Gutes.

Alle hier empfohlenen Tipps beruhen auf meiner eigenen Erfahrung.
Wie ist deine Erfahrung mit der Hautpflege? Wünscht du dir zu einem Produkt oder einem Wirkstoff einen näheren Einblick? Lass uns das gern wissen.

Deine Marie.

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